Adventure 9.3: Nancy, France

Sunday and Monday, April 24 & 25, 2011

Nancy ~ my favorite town of the trip. If you ever get the chance to go to France, make an effort to spend 2 days in Nancy. Nancy is not a big city, but it is heavenly. I arrived around 3, checked into the hotel (which gave me an upgrade…woohoo!), and headed to the historic district. The town square was magnificent. The buildings on all sides were in the same style, a statue in the middle, and huge water fountains at the corners. The square had several restaurants in it that all had outdoor seating. Then the little train came - the tourist train. For 6 Euros, I hopped on and took an hour spin around town. This was worth it because you got an overview and then could decide what to go back and see.

I walked through town lazily, taking my time, and enjoying the sunny weather. I had been flying around like a nut for 4 days and I was in relaxation mode. Yes, this doesn't happen often with me, but Nancy is a place to "stop and smell the roses." I saw the church, famous houses, the original town wall and entrance, and one of the most beautiful gardens I have ever been in. I spent much time in the garden before going to dinner.

  

I had done little wine tasting on my tour so tonight I decided to savor my dinner. I sat outside, drinking a Reisling, and listening to a band. Then I venture to dinner and had a salad with kish-pie for starters and a glass of Cotes du Tour Gris. Next I had a juicy steak with French fries and a Cotes du Rhone, for dessert it was a raspberry tart with crème and raspberry sherbet and a sweet dessert wine. I thoroughly enjoyed my terrace dinner and the people watching was good too. It was about this time that I hear "Pennsylvania". Being over here and not hearing much English you tend to pick up on and pick out the Americans quickly. As the couple got up to leave, I asked where they were from. They were from Pennsylvania; my old stomping grounds. We chatted for a bit about the Steelers, Joe Pa, and Nancy. It sure is a small world.

After dinner I visited the garden again and then spent some time practicing my night photography. Nancy is a town that takes you back and time. You wander around thinking that you should have a dress on with big bustle in the back, wearing a corset, and carrying a parasol.

Monday morning, I finally had a very very delicious crepe with raspberries and wandered the garden again.

My general thought on France:

- Nancy is a must visit. Loved it! Loved it! Loved it!
- It is dirty. Dog poo is all over the streets because no one cleans up after their dogs
- Paris has many bums and smells like pee
- Every woman wears crazy high heeled shoes that look so uncomfortable. Me? I had my Keen hikers on
- Everyone in Paris is romantic. Is this because of the stereotype that Paris is for lovers and that's why people go there? Or is it a cultural thing?
- France is very "multiculti" - all races and ages together everywhere.

And now for my tangent:

I went to France without knowing any French and expected to be able to function. I was hoping that people would speak English. In reality this is ignorant of me. I know only English. Let's set aside that fact that I am slowly learning German for a minute. Yes, it is true that English in the world business language. However, when people come to the US and they can't speak English, I think "you should learn English if you're going to come here." But as I travel around Europe, I do not know much besides English and expect that people can speak English to me. Is this a product of the US being dominant for so long? Note to self: I should at least try to learn so basics before traveling to Italy and beyond. I don't want to be the ignorant American.

Adventure 9.2: The Rest of Paris & TP #5

Saturday and Sunday, April 23 & 24, 2011

Saturday was a busy day. My first stop was the Tuleries. This was a giant garden on the famous stretch between the Louvre and the Arc de Triomphe known as the Champs-Élysées. The gardens are beautiful. I went to the Louvre first to see what all of the fuss was about Mona Lisa. The line to enter was hours long, but I found it hard to believe that there was only 1 entrance to a place the size of the Louvre. I found an attendant and ask. Sure enough I could go to the Lions Gate entrance. There was no line at this entrance. I paid and was close to the Mona Lisa at this entrance than at the main entrance.

Paintings within paintings.

Now that is impressive!

The Louvre is quite impressed. The amount of art in that place is amazing. I saw many great paintings, but the first thing I saw that I was really impressed with was Nike. What a great statue with her wings stretched out. Next it was on to Mona Lisa. The crowd before Mona was crazy -people fighting and pushing. I won't bore you with her picture, but check out the amount of visitors. I can't say that I'm terribly impressed with Mona. I'm not quite sure what all of the fuss is about. Yes, admittedly I went to see her because she is famous. Guilty as charged. But I liked the picture of the head on the platter better. There are several more pieces of famous art that I saw. But why are these famous? Your guess is as good as mine. There are famous statues with parts missing like heads, arms, noses, etc. And these are the famous. However there are fully intact statues that are much more beautiful that are not famous. Alas, I must conclude that art, like beauty, is in the eyes of the beer holder...er...beholder.

Can you see Mona back ther?

What about the deer in the headlights?

 

My favorite part of the Louvre...the Egyptian section. I must have spent an hour here and was particularly drawn to the eyes of the Egyptians.





People outside the Louvre
pretending to be statues.

The Louvre is a labyrinth. It took me at least 30 minutes to find my way out. I followed the "sortie" signs, but walked in a circle at least once before passing all the same stuff again and finally getting out. The next stop was Notre Dame. It was beautiful, but extremely crowded. No chance of peace in that place. Loved the gargoyles though! Back to the hotel for a shower and quick make over. It was time for a night out on the town.

I was off to the ballet. I had never been to the ballet before and I was excited. I was all dressed up and getting ready to head out when it started pouring rain. Thankfully I had brought and umbrella with me. Thanks mom for sending one. I took the bus to the metro and made my way to the opera. I was planning on having a light dinner before the show. As I exited the metro I looked around thinking I should be able to see the opera house. I could not. All I saw was many SWAT teams and a large group of protestors. I'm not sure what they were protesting. I looked down at my ticket again and at the directions on them. This would be TP #5. I went to the wrong Opera house. They are not close to each other at all and I went to the wrong one. I had 45 minutes until the show. So much for dinner. It was back down to the metro and on to the right opera house. It took me 30 minutes to get to where I needed to be. No dinner for me.

The opera house was spectacular. I can't even describe it. Just check out the pictures. I had a glass of bubbly and then went into to watch the ballet. The dancers were very talented. I loved it! The story line was a bit bizarre. I can't say I'm great at interpreting these things but the first performance had to do with nuns and catholic school girls with secrets. The second had to do with a person not knowing if they were male or female. Yes, the story line was interesting, but this is art. However, the dancing was amazing.

Sunday morning I went to Notre Dame for Easter service. I sat in the church with about 2000 French girl and boy scouts. They helped give the service and parts were in English. It was an interesting service and not at all what I expect. I took communion in the Catholic Church. The Catholics say I'm going to hell. God says all are welcome at his table, "take, eat, this is my body broken for you."

Grab a Starbucks and head for the train station. Nancy is the next town on the circuit.

Adventure 9.1: Lyon to Paris aka TP#3 & 4

Friday, April 22, 2011

I woke up this morning and headed straight for a Starbucks. I was on my way to the giant church on top of the hill. I thought I would rent a bike since it looked like a decent walk and I didn’t have much time. My train left at 12:15 for Paris and it was already 9. I couldn’t rent a bike because my credit card doesn’t have a smart chip (the majority of the US cards don’t; all of the Europe cards do). This was a minor TP, but easily fixed by power walking and sometimes running so as not to miss my train. So this one doesn’t get a number. Along the way I decided to walk through the local street market. These markets are fabulous and America misses out by not having these in every town.

Beaujolais Controlee

This brings me to my only wine tasting of my trip. I was walking along and this old man spoke to me. I said “Sorry, I only speak English.” He said “That’s ok, I speak English.” The man was in his 60’s or higher I would guess and he owns a vineyard that produces 15,000 bottles a year. Not much by wine standards. I chatted with the man and tasted his wine for about 20 minutes. I learned about his winery and how he learned English (by getting himself an American girlfriend…hahaha!). He suggested that I get a French boyfriend. Haha! Now that’s darn funny. No thanks, I’ll pass. I bought 2 bottles of the Beaujolais Blanc from the guy and was on my merry way.

Up the hill I went and up and up. I got to the church with roughly 30 minutes to look around before my descent. The church was beautiful as all of these churches are. Painted ceilings, stained glass windows, marble statues, but not a place that I could find God. There was also a church under the church. More low key, not crowded with people, but I was out of time and couldn’t sit. I started down the hill. I ran into a group of children making the Good Friday march up to the church. One little boy was Jesus carrying the cross. What a beautiful scene. As I continued down the hill, I ran into more and more groups of children. I was in a hurry. I was dodging kids and squeezing past in the shrubs on the way down. Once down, I jetted to my hotel and onto the train station.

See that tall building back
there? The train station
was on the other side

It was 11:45. I was on schedule. I printed my ticket and realized my train left at 12:41, 30 minutes later than I thought. Now I had an hour to kill. I ate lunch, bought some ridiculously funny sunny glasses, and watched the board for my train to appear. Lunch: A baguette with lettuce and brie. These French baguettes are good! The first 12:41 train appeared on the board at 12:15; it was not mine. Then a 12:42 train appeared. Where was my train? TP#3!!!!! I look at my ticket and realize that I am at the wrong train station. A curse word slipped out! I grab my suit case and run outside, look at the map, and realize the other train station is not within walking distance in the next 30 minutes. I try to find a cab. I find one that, of course, speaks no English. I show him my ticket to say where I want to go. He saying ‘no’ and motioning for me to go back to the station. What I take from him is the following: The train leaves from the station I’m supposed to be at and stops at this station before going to Paris. Really? That would be awesome. I fly back inside and find information. What I inferred from the cabi was correct. There train will arrive here at 1:00. Thank ya Jesus! That was a close call.

I arrive in Paris to a massive train station. I find information and figure out how to get a metro pass. I interpret the map and I’m on the metro going to my hotel. But wait! TP#4 has reared its ugly head. The metro suddenly stops and everyone must get off. The tunnel is under construction. I’m 4 or 5 stops from where I want to be which equates to an hour walk according to my Crackberry (ma and pa, that is what my phone is nicknamed by the general public). I try to ask a metro guy, but the English is so rough I can’t understand. Next I look for a bus station. I go to look at the map and can’t figure out crap. The line I need is not at this station and I’d probably be better off walking than trying to change buses. I see another bus stop across the street. This one has a bus man at it. I show him where I need to go and he puts me a bus marked “special”. Yes, I suppose after this trip I should be on the special bus. I do make it to that bus stop I need and after only a 15 minute walk arrive at my hotel. From the train station to my hotel only took me close to 2 hours. Yikes. I wash my face and head to the Eiffel Tower. The line to go up is monstrous. I ate some ice cream. I decide to wait until night. I walk around the tower, down the lawn, around some buildings, all around the area until I settle on a café to eat at.

It was a lovely café, with a view of the Eiffel Tower. I had a Carpaccio salad, French fries, and a Cotes du Rhone wine. It was nice sitting outside and watching as the tower sparkled. Seriously, they light it up to make it look like it sparkles. It was very nice. After dinner I went back to the Eiffel Tower, waited in line for 45 minutes to take the roughly 700 stairs to the second stage of the tower. The line for the elevator was too long, but who wants to use that when you walk. The view is much better. You can’t walk all the way to the top, but I am ok with not going to the top. You can see everything from the second stage.

Time for bed. More of Paris to come.

Adventure 9.0: Switzerland to Lyon, France aka TP#1 and #2

Thursday, April 21, 2011

France: the land of wine tasting, crepes, and famous sites with sayings like “gay Pari” and “Paris is for lover”. Well for me France is the land of transportation problems (for short let’s call them TPs), beautiful parks and gardens, and a lovely ballet.

The original plan: Thursday - Take the direct train to Lyon, France, arrive by early afternoon, tour the city. Friday – take the train to Tain l’Hermitage and visit 4 wineries all within reasonable walking distance of the train station. Take the train to Paris in the evening. Saturday – tour Paris, see the ballet. Sunday – Go to Easter Mass at the famous Notre Dame. Take the train to Nancy in the evening. Monday – Tour Nancy, head home. I have highlighted the plan deviation areas.

TP #1: The night before I left, I discovered that I need reservations on certain trains in France. This is unlike Switzerland. Mainly these were the trains in and out of France. All the train in the EVENING were booked, so I ended up booking trains that left at around 12 from Lyon to Paris and Paris to Nancy. Ok so this is a slight change of plans, but it’s all good. Then I discover that the train I was planning to take from Geneva to Lyon was cancelled. They suggest I take a bus. That wasn’t happening so I came up with plan B.

Plan B: Thursday – Take the train to Chambery, France. Take an evening train to Lyon and skip seeing Lyon. Pick up with Original plan on Friday.

I was up at the before the crack of dawn to take the 5:30 AM train to Chambery. I changed trains in Laussanne which is on a lake. There I caught the train to Chambery. The train ride to Chambery was beautiful. The train was small, when slow, and had almost no people on it. I was a little surprised at this because from the online research I did Chambery looked like a big city. I enjoy the ride up the mountain. Part of the train ride was on a cog because the grade was steep. After an hour and a half I arrive in Chambery. This small town was beautifully nestled in the mountain. I was a bit puzzled at how small it was. I saw a tourist information center and went in. I grabbed a map and visitors guide. As I looked at the map, I became quite puzzled. Where was the lake that I saw online? Where was the town? I was in a one horse town that didn’t have a horse. This was a small ski town (note for next winter) and realization slowly crept in. TP#2 THE BIG KAHUNA. Could there possibly be two towns named Chambery? There sure was and I was in the one in Switzerland NOT France. I could do nothing but laugh, laugh, laugh some more and see when the next train to somewhere was. Well, there was only 1 train that came to Champery and that was the one I took up here. I stand corrected. This was a one train town, literally. I would have to wait an hour for the train to take me back to Laussanne. It was a beautiful train ride though and I saw many wineries on the hillside, but tasted no wine. On the ride down a flower flew in the window and landed in my lap. A kiss from God as He laughed along with me. [On a side note, I was informed at work today that it is Champery, Switzerland and Chambery, France. The difference between a ‘p’ and a ‘b’ can be so dramatic.

By the time I made it to Geneva, my train to Lyon was running again. Sweet! Upon arrival in France, the train was stopped and searched by police. I soon learned that all big train stations in France have many armed guards on the prowl. Not just with a Billy club, but with semi-automatic weapons. I arrived in Lyon and got to my hotel by 6PM. Then I walked for the next 4 hours checking out Lyon. There was much to see. I stopped by a crepe shop and it was too late to eat crepes. The menu looked so good. A crepe with chocolate, pears, and Grand Marnier. I would come back tomorrow. Let me just skip a head for this saga. I stopped in the next day at about 11AM. I was told it was too early to eat crepes. So what time can you eat a crepe in France? I may never know. The Rhone River runs through Lyon. These were the wines I should be tasting tomorrow, the Cotes du Rhone wines. But they eluded me on this trip. With my 2 TPs that had occurred I did not have time to take the hour long train trip to Tain. I will have to come back.